Saturday, March 31, 2007

Saturday the 14eme

The weather is fining up but still quite cool. We decide to check out the 14eme and visit a market - Vanves - a bric a brac market at Port de Vanves. It is very cold and the market is full of other men's treasures. Not much of interest to us; but we're not into old junk. I'm sure many a collector would have gone into raptures over boxes of seriously old post cards, old glass photo negatives, silverware, buttons, vinyl records and the like.

We walk back to Montparnasse and have lunch in a pub. Penne Ceps (mushroom) for Kwan and Dorade (white fish) for me - satisfying and warmed us up. For 9 euros each we ventured up the Tour Montparnasse and much to my surprise with weather now cloudy and light showers, the view of Paris was really good. Because Montparnasse stands to the side (or south to be correct) of Paris, it lends a view which puts the sights of Paris in perspective. Many a guide book has said this and I concur with the recommendation of a trip up to the top of Montparnasse.
We walk home in the drizzle, via the patisserie (Mont Blanc and Rum Baba) and deli to buy some supplements to our planned fried rice dinner.

8k

Friday, March 30, 2007

Lunch with Guy

Its raining quite heavy and not conducive to going out at all.
Kwan goes ahead into LaFayette to organise some Tax refunds - and I suspect to have a last look at the sale which finishes tomorrow. I join her and look around for a jacket but can't get motivated or interested - very crowded.
We have lunch at Guy Savoy restaurant in the 17th, just near the Arc de Triomphe. We ask for the fixed price menu which is not a problem, like the rest of the meal. The service is superb and everything about the experience is wonderful. I say 9/10 Kwan says 8.5/10.
Still raining when we finish a little after 3 so we come home and have a nap. Luxury.
Dinner a la maison.



5k

Thursday, March 29, 2007

Jeudi in the Marais

We set out to explore the Marais today, covering many streets we missed on the Sunday some weeks earlier when we were here. Walk through the Hotel de Sully and Place des Vosges. Rue des Rosiers, the center of the Jewish quarter is very interesting and the food outlets (falafel) look like we should definitely come back for a meal.
We lunch at Benoit not far from the Centre Pompidou in rue St Martin. The food is very nice but surrounded by Americans - must have read the same travel guide.
Apres dejeuner we explore more of the area between Rivoli and the Seine.

Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Mercredi at the 10eme

The guide books say there is little to recommend the 10th.

We wanted to see the Canal St Martin and our research told us that there were also 2 markets on Wednesday in the 10th.

Both the markets were quite similar. Mostly food. Nothing special about produce, prices or quality.
The Canal was pretty dirty and the banks frequently populated with tents of the homeless.

All in all the guide books were right.

Later we shopped in China town. We discovered another street which has a few much larger asian grocers. Kwan is crazy about a tropical fruit called Physalis, also known as Chinese Lantern or Cape Gooseberries. It originates from South America. We've never seen them available anywhere else in the world but here so far. It is yellow in colour and looks like a cherry but wrapped in a husk. Photo later or search in google for physalis photo.

Dinner in the evening with Eileen and Carl at Restaurant Balzac - not worth the price.
Lunch Tante Alice - very nice lapin avec pate (pasta) sauce moutarde.


12k

Tuesday, March 27, 2007

Cimetière du Père Lacaise

Up early to say good bye to Annie and Christina who depart by cab at 7am.

We have quite a morning. Lunch at the Royal in Rue de Grenelle - E12 for 3 courses.. V good place for locals. Do some grocery shopping and get my watch fixed.

Catch bus 69 from Rue st Dominique to Père Lacaise cemetery. Bus is very hot and crowded. Trip takes over an hour and would be a way of seeing a lot of the city on a cooler day.

Cemetery is quite good. We see graves of Jim Morrison, Edith Piaf, Oscar Wilde and Maria Callas. Others in this cemetery who we did not see include Molière, Chopin, Bizet, Sarah Bernhardt and Marcel Proust. Cemeteries not normally my thing, but this one was interesting.

Metro ride home is much quicker at only 20 minutes.
Kwan makes a wonderful home cooked pasta for dinner.

12k

Monday, March 26, 2007

Annie and Christina's last day

Today we pack in stuff we haven't yet done.
Annie and Christina have crepes for petit dejeuner at the local. Off to the quay for the one hour glass boat tour on the Seine. Lunch at Le Goumard followed up with a walk through Jardin Tullieries, a visit to Notre Dame and some last minute souvenir shopping.
Dinner at the local Bistrot du 7ème followed by the last instalment of the chinese film festival.
Phew!


12k

Sunday, March 25, 2007

Sunday a la Magasins

For some reason, possibly to coincide with the beginning of Daylight Saving, all of the department stores have a 3 day promotion (read sale) and, unusually, are open on Sunday. This has given me a day off from being tour guide and Metro navigator while they have their day of therapy. A whole day of cruising department stores would be like water torture for me. A thankful dispensation.

En route to the Metro we visited Rue Cler Sunday market and purchased a selection of irresistable food for what turned out to be a gourmet eating feast tonight taken around the kitchen table.

I caught up with blogs and email and went for a long walk.

After dinner Kwan continued her chinese movie festival dans la salon avec ses amies.

Saturday, March 24, 2007

Saturday on the Champs .............. Duck's off

Up a little earlier and we catch the Metro to Champs Elysee for Petit dejeuner watching the passing parade.
This is followed by mandatory photo up the blvd of the Arch and retail therapy. We lunch in a very local bar (Elysee St Honore) with the locals. I go home to catch up on emails and blogs.
In the evening, 6pm, we go to an art exhibition of a friend of my French friend Jacques, whose name is also Annie.
It's been raining most of the afternoon and is still raining when we try and find a cab to get to our restaurant for dinner - an establishment specialising in Le Canard. Duck froie gras 10 different ways (including au natural - yes I mean raw - which sets the girls right off) followed by confit or magret 3 or 4 ways each. Christina informs us she is allergic to duck. Oh..... She settles for a plate of fried mushrooms. Luckily the desert didn't feature duck.
Dinner - Au Petit Sud Ouest 7eme.

12k


Friday, March 23, 2007

Friday - Le Louvre - La Fayatte - le Grand Colbert

A later start as our visitors did some time adjusting overnight.

Coffee and croissants at the corner bistro. Train to Louvre where we spend longer than expected seeing the old girl, painted by that Italian fellow - funny isn't it, that one of the biggest attraction in Paris was created by an Italian - and the Napoleon apartments. This is followed by an inspection of some of the most valuable retail property in Paris along Rue St Honoré and lunch at the Truffle restaurant in Place de la Madelene. Lunch is great except I order the sausages or Andouille - you've been warned - this is sausage stuffed with intestine and other sweet meats - not me at all.

The ladies continue to look at rue St Honoré and up to Galleries LaFayette, while I go home for some rest and email catch up. I meet up with them at 7pm to go to dinner at classic Parisian bistro Le Grand Colbert, featured in the Jack Nicholson and Diane Keaton movie "Something's Gotta Give".
Lunch - Maison de la Truffle.

15k

Thursday, March 22, 2007

Thursday Annie and Christina

Kwan's best friend from USA, Annie - from Atlanta- and her friend Christina - from Arizona- arrived at earlier than expected at the apartment at 9am.
After coffee and croissants at chez Walker they freshened up while I walked over to the Australian Embassy to lodge our votes in the NSW state election.

I tell Annie and Christina that we will be doing a lot of walking. They give me the "are you crazy" look.

Walk through Rue Dominique, Rue Cler to and through Champ de Mars to see Eiffel Tower; meet a Paris resident American who recommends le Dernier Metro near Duplex Metro, where we go for Dejeuner. Fantastic...put this one on the secret Paris experiences. Walk back to Les Invalides and see Napoleon's tomb.

Its quite a cold day.

We go to a very well regarded local eatery Cafe Constant - last week we tried to get in but got there too late. They don't take reservations. Annie and Christina are dead. After trying to order a Caesar salad they settle on one course and we take them home for a good night sleep.

15k

Wednesday, March 21, 2007

Wednesday Hairplay

Today is a big day; we're having our first French hair cut. Well Kwan is. I had mine last week. The salon has a very smart address in the 1st.- rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Carita - La Maison de Beaute - the sign says. I leave her there at 10.30 and am told to return in about an hour.

We celebrate the smart hair with a fashionable lunch at
Carré des Feuillants (2 Michelin star). We've discovered that the otherwise outrageously expensive restaurants often have a reasonably priced set menu at lunch time. The meal lived up to expectations; food and service are all excellent.



8k

Tuesday, March 20, 2007

Domestic Tuesday & views of La Tour Eiffel


Cleaner came today. Generally busy morning getting ready for our first visitors later in the week. The cleaner Marianna was running late but arrived at 11am with her 7 month baby girl Lea (?).

We walked over to the Cyber Cafe in the 16th to print out some documents, had lunch in a local bistro, Kléber. Walked back via the tower and Champs de Mars. I take more photos of ET which I will get around to posting one of these days.

A home cooked meal in the apartment which we are beginning to really appreciate. The fare is just too rich for more than once a day (if that)

Kwan's excited about the arrival of her friend from Atlanta, Annie on Thursday.
8k

Monday, March 19, 2007

Not Chinatown Monday

Again a cold day. Feels like it might snow.

The French don't seem to like Mondays either. Many, but not all shops are closed on Mondays. Some restaurants and many Museums also close on Mondays. And somewhat surprisingly there are no markets in Paris on Lundi. There would be at least 20 markets around Paris on every other day of the week, including Sundays, mais rien Lundi.

I pick up our Le Code Confidentiel from HSBC for our new French Visa Cartes, the dry cleaning et baguette and croissants pour petit dejeuner. most of the shops in our local Rue Cler are ferme.

Pas probleme, nous allons à le chinoise ville. We go via lunch in the 15eme and a visit to a cyber cafe (more on Internet cafes in Paris later) which is entirely useless having ancient PCs and an old school unhelpful Frenchman. Arriving at Metro Place d'Italie we walk to the main Rue of Asian activity, Avenue de la Choisy - actually they don't have a Chinatown as such it's Asian and generally the Restaurants declare themselves Chinoise, Thailandaise, Vietnamien. Chinatown does have 2 good Asian supermarchés that we have discovered, and Kwan is keen to get some fresh legumes and supplies.

We turn into Ave de la Choisy - Ahhhhhhh the supermarché est fermé. Impossible. Most of the Chinese restaurants sont fermé.
This is not Chinatown. Chinese never fermé.
We walk 5 blocks to the other supermarché and relief, this one's open.
We get our supplies and it's starting to rain. We head for the nearest Metro trés froid and damp.
Home cooked stir fry est trés bon.

9k

Sunday, March 18, 2007

Rainy days and Sundays

Today we wake up to cold, cloudy day with light drizzle. Cold is about 5oC. Not inspiring so we take it slowly and catch up with emails, blogs and research. We head out for lunch around 1.30 pm and try a local eatery which is always crowded called Sud. We are lucky to get one of the last tables as they check if there is a reservation with priority. The food is good (Chicken targine) and arrives quickly. The wine never arrives after ordering 3 times. The bill never arrives after polite hand signals, si vous plait, l'addition and the like probably 5 times and after 20 minutes I put my coat on go to the counter and complain to the guy in charge. Many apologies.....we wont go back. Pity it had a lot going for it, and it's hard to find places open on Sundays.

Sundays are a bit problematic in Paris. Most shops and many restaurants are closed, while the museums are packed.

After lunch we catch the Metro to St Sébastien-Froissart to explore the Marais. This is one of the few areas of Paris where shops and restaurants generally stay open on Sundays. It is also main Jewish precinct in Paris. Nous marchons Rue Vieille du Temple, Rue des Fils de Perle, Rue des Francs Bourgeois and have tea and Grog (warm wine) at Place des Vosges.

Now after 5pm we catch a Metro to Gare de Nord to test out the RER train service to Charles de Guille airport . Its a bit hard to find a booth selling Les Billets and we discover the machine we try doesn't like any of our cartes de crédit. The express train outbound lives up to the promise of 25 minutes. The return takes 1h5m to Gare de Nord and continuing on to San Michel and using the system to get us back home makes it more than 1h30m. The shuttle bus, while more expensive seems like a better option, or even a cab out of peak hour.

12k

Saturday, March 17, 2007

St Patricks Samedi

We had a slow start today. Heading out at Midday to the 6th with the plan to work our way down from Sèvres Babylone to St Germain de Pres.
Lunched at Le Phylo 48 Rue du Cherche Midi. Kwan had Beef Bourguignon and I had Veal. Très Bien.
Walked back to Bon Marche, bought some soap. Walked south along Rue de Sèvres then across to Rue du Cherche Midi at Galerie le Sevrien and towards the Seine to Pl M Debré, briefly along Rue de Grenelle and explored Rue des Saint Pères where Kwan had some shopping therapy.
By now very cold we walked to and along Blvd St Germain to Metro Malliot and home via Metro Ecole Militaire and Rue Cler for some provisions.
Home cooked stir fried lettuce in oyster sauce and Kwan's special fried rice with chinese mushroom and sausage for dinner. Yum

9k

Friday, March 16, 2007

Friday with Van

Quiet morning at home. I went to the bank to pick up credit cards, cheq & deposit books plus coffee (of course - bien sur).
Neither Kwan nor I was feeling 100% today and decided that a Chinese meal might help. We lunched at Delice dÁsie 28 rue Surcouf 75007. Spécialités Chinoises, Thailandaises et Vietnamiennes, the sign outside announces. One of the things we've noticed is that they lump Asian food together and don't make the distinctions that we are used to. Cantonese staff and Mandarin chef Kwan informed me. The meal is certainly acceptable and we both feel a bit better.

Kwan heads home and I head off to the Cyber cafe in the 16th, a 30 min (2.5k) walk along and across the Seine half way up to the Arch de Triomphe, to print out some documents and send a fax.

By the time I get home its 4pm and we decide to rest up for an hour or so before going out for the evening. Tonight we have tickets to see Van Morrison at the Olympia.

We catch the Metro to Madeleine and find something light to eat. Kwan is concerned that we are running late for the 8pm start. I inform her that we will only miss a few minutes of the support act. We arrive at 8.10 and the bars are full. Maybe everyone is sitting out the support. After people watching for a few minutes we go in. No one on stage! Oh well running late... We are shown to our seats. We purchased the B reserve in the circle as they didn't look too far back on the plan and we were pleased at being able to get seats on the aisle. It turns out the aisle seat is a jump, or folding seat. Presumably this is to make for wider aisles when people are leaving, but it doesn't make for particularly comfortable seating. Kwan is stoic.
I note that they have not sold all the jump seats... local knowledge.

At a little after 8.30, "Ladies and gentlemen Mr Van Morrison" and the 7 piece band and 2 backing singers strike up Moondance. I'm in heaven. We experience an hour and a half of the most amazing Jazz meets country sprinkled with rock and roll and Irish folk. The set includes Brown Eyed Girl, Bright Side of the Road, Days Like This, Stranded, St. James Infirmary, I Can't Stop Loving You and the Olympia erupted when he concluded with GLORIA. One of the classiest concerts I've been to in years. Van Morrison in Paris

10.15 we head home thoroughly satisfied.

11k

Thursday, March 15, 2007

Thursday the ides of Mars

I had a 9am breakfast with Richard Rowe from USA who is visiting town on business. His hotel was up near the Arch de Triomphe. I walked back through the 16th stopping at a a Cyber Cafe to print some documents and send faxes, returning to the apartment at midi.
We walked across des Invalides to the other section of the 7th and had a really good lunch at Le Basilic. Service was slow due to disorganisation but the locals were willing to overlook for the great cuisine. So were we.
Apres Dejeuner we continued our walk through the 6th.
Back to our neighbourhood for Kwan to have a facial. I get a haircut, recharge the phone and put the dry cleaning in.
Dinner at Chez Les Angles in Bd la Tour Marbourg - ok but wont go back

14km

Wednesday, March 14, 2007

Wed - Lunch with the Woodruffs

We head out 11.30am to the 11th. Metro to Bastille with a view to walking around before meeting John and Christine for lunch. Disorientated we take the wrong direction and when we realise we do and about face. Luckily we get a call from Christine and they are also running late.

We lunch at Le Passage des Casmagnoles in the 11th with John and Christine.

After lunch we find our way to Galaries LaFayette and Printemps to get a general orientation.

Dinner - Cafe Roussillon at 7eme.
9km

Tuesday, March 13, 2007

1eme pt 2

Metro to Concord. Walk along Royale, Rue Faubourg St Honore, Rue St Honore. Lunch @ L'Imprimerie 29 rue Coquillière 75001 - terrible food.
Walk to Rue Etienne Marcel and Rue Montorgueil and Les Halles shopping centre. Purchased mouse x 2 amd camera case at FNAC. Metro home from Les Hales via Montparnasse and Motte Picquet. Shopped at Rue Cler for fruit and dinner.
13km

Monday, March 12, 2007

Madeleine - Palais Royal - Angelina

Metro to Madeleine, walked around Place de la Madeleine. Interesting food shops....Truffles, Caviar/vodka, Fauchon.
Walked to Rue Thérèse and had lunch at Chez Stella (no 3)
Palais Royale - Jardin du Palais Royale, Place de Victoires and down Rue Croix des Petits Champs to Rivoli. Afternoon at Angelina and then walked along Rue St Honore.
Back to Blvd des Capucines and bought tickets to Van Morrison at the Olympia.
Purchased some snacks and food at Fauchon.
Metro home at 6pm
12k

Sunday, March 11, 2007

Bois de Boulogne - Parc Monceau - Champs Elysee

Fine and warm. ....a beautiful spring day.
Caught Metro to Porte Maillot
Walked around Bois de Boulogne. Park with many people cycling, roller blading, walking, running, boating etc. Had sandwich at Kiosk. Walked out of park to Passy. Metro to Monceau and walked around Parc Monceau - very nice. Exited along Ave Hoche and walked to Arc de Triomphe then down Champs Elysées, Franklin D. Roosevelt, Pont des Invalides and Blvd de la Tour Maubourg and home. .... 20k

Saturday, March 10, 2007

Chinatown Rue Mouffetard

Caught Metro to 13th - Place dÍtalie - and found Chinatown in Avenue de Choisy. Lunch in small restaurant 16 euros (Lao Douang Chan - Vietnamese beef noodles). Checked out the Asian supermarket and found a lot of exotic fruit and vegetables that are unfamiliar and not available in Sydney Chinatown.
Weather beautiful fine and warm.
Walked down Ave des Gobelins..Rue Mouffetard, Panthéon, Jardin Luxembourg, Blvd Saint Germain.
Caught Metro from Mabillon home.
Dinner with Jacques, Annie (new girlfriend), Bernard and Anna @ Nos Ancetres Les Gaulois on Ile St Louis. We went to dancing afterwards but it was closed for a private function.

Friday, March 9, 2007

Friday - first meal in apmt - bank ac - belonging

Early morning walk - Eiffel Tower along Seine and back along Blvd de la Tour Maubourg

We had appointment at HSBC to open a bank account this morning. I had some apprehension about the reasons or barriers they would have to opening up an account for a foreigner. This proved unfounded and the account manager was helpful and charming. As the process proceeded and he explained what we could do with the account and the charges etc, I got this wonderful feeling of belonging.
We purchased some salad and antipasti and took it home to the apartment for lunch. - our first meal (other than petit déjeuner) in the apartment. Tres bon.

Thursday, March 8, 2007

Thursday - bon Marche

Apres petit déjeuner we caught the Metro to Bon Marche department store where we had lunch at Delicabar

Wednesday, March 7, 2007

Wednesday - tres Beau

We walked to the Eiffel tower and along the Seine.
A nap late afternoon at home - wonderful.

Purchased Sim card - now have French Mobile.

Tuesday, March 6, 2007

Tuesday - Wet

Tuesday was wet,unlike the beautiful day we had for our arrival on Monday. We spent the day exploring the local neighbourhood.

Dinner Le Bistrot du 7eme.

Monday, March 5, 2007

Paris enfin

We have finally arrived in Paris on Monday to start our adventure. Departure from Sydney was anxious as you might imagine..... and the journey.... well travel is always fraught. Our flight was delayed 1 hour which meant we missed our connection in London; the replacement flight was also delayed an hour. All this translated to a door to door travel time of 36 hours - phew. But the sun was shining in Paris - un tres beau journee